Grizzly 16″ Jointer- G9953ZX Review

I purchased my G9953ZX in late June of 2018, shortly before the US government imposed the tariff. I had difficulty finding reviews for this model. Hopefully, this review will help someone in the future.

I compared this jointer to models from Felder, SCM and Powermatic. At the time of my purchase, the G9953ZX was the only immediately available single phase 16” jointer, that I could locate. I was able to find 16” jointer/planer combos, and 3 phase 16” jointers. After considering my options, I felt that the G9953ZX represented a good compromise between features and value. However, after close to 6 months of regular use, I do not feel that compromise is a good word to describe this machine. I think it is an excellent machine.

Setting up the jointer was easy. I used a 10’ long aluminum straight edge from McMaster Carr, and a 4’ Starret straight edge to inspect the machine. The tables were co-planer, and very flat. I was unable to get a .001 feeler gauge under the straight edges. As I recall, the fence was either slightly bowed or hollow by a few thousandths. I’ve never used or owned a jointer with a perfectly flat fence. I don’t think it matters. I’m providing this information in the spirit of thoroughness, not because I believe that it really matters.

UPS Freight canceled delivery a few hours before the scheduled appointment. This was inconvenient because I rented a forklift to help unload and position the machine. Liftgate service was unavailable for this item. I ended up renting a stake bed truck, and I picked up the machine from the freight depot. Lifting the machine off of the pallet was uncomplicated. The machine’s base has a convenient place for lifting straps.

I use this machine almost everyday. I’d recommend it to anyone who is interested in a stand alone 16” jointer. It is a large and heavy machine. It is over 99” long, and weighs over 1,600 lbs. If anyone has any questions about this machine, please let me know. I’ll be happy to give information based on my experience.


Grizzly 16" Jointer in crate G9953ZX


Reclaimed Glass Cabinet doors wavey glass

Building a China Cabinet Part TWO

Building Simulated Divided Light Doors

I used Glen Huey’s technique for the doors’ muntins. He covers this technique in a few of his books, and also in an article on his website. Click Here to read his instructions for this topic. I have no affiliation with him, or his buisness. I’m just a fan.


I cut the rabbets for the glazing before the door was assembled. I used stopped rabbets instead of rabbets with offset shoulders.I used Dominoes for the joints between the rails and stiles, and I cut the mortises for the muntins with a 1/4″ mortise chisel.


After the Door was assembled, I used the Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig to drill for the doors’ hinges. DSC00121

Cutting Glass for the Cabinet Doors.



I was inspired to use reclaimed glass after reading an article by Steve Latta in the Sept/October 2016 issue of Fine Woodworking. If you are interested, you can read the article here. I purchased these old Windows on Craigslist. They came from a 19th century house in Mount Holly New Jersey.  The glass is slightly wavy and has a slight greenish tint. I find the irregularities in old glass to be pleasing. I begin the process of removing the glass by cutting apart the joint between the rail and the stile.


After removing the rail, I gently remove each piece of glass from the old window. Next, I begin the process of cutting the glass to the sizes needed for my cabinet doors. First, I mark each piece of glass with a marker. Then I use a square to help guide my glass cutter on the mark I made in the first step. Once the glass has been sufficiently scored, I snap off the waste. I’ve found that pliers are very useful when removing small amounts of glass. I’m not an expert when it comes to working with glass. After a few failures, I adjusted my scoring technique and I was satisfied with the outcome.

After each piece of glass has been cut to it’s final size, we clean each piece with dish detergent, warm water and razor blades. It’s a good idea to remove most of the grime, and the old glazing putty before you assemble your new glass doors. I prefer to do most of the cleaning after the glass has been cut to it’s final size.


After the doors have been finished, I bed each piece of glass in a thin layer of silicone, and I secure everything with wood retaining strips, and 23 gauge nails.

In part 3 of this article, I’ll discuss the molding I used on this cabinet.

Building a China Cabinet Part One


White Farmhouse China Cabinet with Glass doors NJIn this series, I’ll post images and descriptions of the various steps involved in building the China Cabinet featured above this paragraph. I took pictures of many of the steps as I built the cabinet. However, I’m writing retrospectively. Please excuse any errors or omissions.

The Design-

My customers specified the size, and color of the cabinet. They also requested that the cabinet should have glass doors, and that the upper and lower portions of the cabinet be roughly the same size. I suggested that the upper portion should be slightly set back from the lower portion. This allows for the use of a waist molding, and a cleaner transition between the upper and lower cabinets. My customers agreed. Other decisions about moldings were left up to me. I’ll discuss the crown molding and the base molding in another post.

Wood China cabinet painted white side view

Building the Cabinet Boxes-

These cabinets have boxes made from maple plywood, and face frames made from Poplar. After I break the sheets of maple plywood down with my track saw, I cut them to their finished length on my table saw.

Sawstop sliding table

Cutting  Plywood China Cabinet parts on a Sawstop Table Saw

Next, I cut the dados for the shelves, tops and bottoms. I tried Veritas Dado Shims for the first time on this project, and I was pleased with the result.

Dado Blade and Dado Shims for Cabinet Making

Dados in Upper China Cabinet sides

Dado joinery China Cabinet Sides

Dado China Cabinet

Assembling the Cabinets, Face Frames, and Test Fitting.

After Cutting the dados in the sides of the upper and lower cabinets, I assemble the cabinets and install their backs. Next, I build the face frames. I use dominoes for the joints in the face frames. After attaching the face frames, I place the upper cabinet upon the lower cabinet. This allows me to verify that I haven’t made any mistakes concerning the offset between the upper and lower portions of the cabinet.

building cabinets from Plywood

building a china cabinet from plywood

In Part Two, I’ll discuss building the doors, and cutting the glass.